-Stock Tune Non Comp
The first upgrade I recommend before honestly even hitting the grocery store is a front Oil Cooler Gaurd. You Can totally your car out in 10 seconds or less just by hitting a parking block with the oil cooler conveniently located at the most vulnerable part of the car the bottom front. So I highly recommend grabbing one of these as the very first upgrade to your M2, M3, M4 F8x Chassis vehicle. BMW engineers positioned the oil cooler quite low under the car, positioned horizontally - an aerodynamic design that creates a vacuum force while driving, drawing heat from the oil cooler. The issue some of the vehicle owners have experienced is road debris from small branches to chunks of ice have impacted the OE belly pan hard enough to crack the oil cooler draining the car's oil rapidly. Being one of the lowest points of the car, even a close encounter with a parking block can mean the end of the road for the factory belly pan - and oil cooler. Damage to the belly pan means reduced cooling, which can result in dangerously high engine temperatures. Once the belly pan is damaged, there is no longer any protection for the oil cooler, meaning damage to the cooler and a catastrophic loss in oil pressure may be right around the corner.
The first thing you need is upgraded stopping power-
GiroDisc two-piece Front Rotors for the F8x Platform these are the fronts you should eventually upgrade the rears also
Another huge advantage of using the Girodisc Rotors all around is it will keep your factory brake bias, unlike many Big brake kits that will throw off the ABS balance and can make the front or rear bias causing unwanted side effects at 150+MPH on track. Grab the Rears here GiroDisc Rear Rotors for F8X M2, M3 & M4 with Blue Calipers
After you take care of the rotors is always a great idea to upgrade the brake lines to steel braided. Now with the new technology used in newer brake lines, this upgrade isn't as huge as it use to be. But I think the biggest advantage comes from protection from heat produced from the brakes on track. The excess heat can actually start to melt rubber lines and can even light them on fire. If you run the steel braided lines on your car you won't have these issues when coming into Laguna Seca Turn 2 at 130+ MPH on a downhill repeatedly. spiegler-stainless-brake-lines-front
I run a R18 Compound upfront. Here's the information on these straight from their site- The R18 is the pinnacle compound of the R-Series compounds engineered by G-LOC™. R18 is based on the same successful principles and fundamentals that exist in all other G-LOC™ R-Series formulations. R18 has more initial bite, overall bite, and even more controllable torque. The R18 offers the absolute most linear torque curve we have ever created. The thermal characteristics and coefficient of friction are of the highest offered by anyone in the braking industry. This revolutionary compound will lead the way in all major forms of racing (professionally and grassroots). R18 has a temperature range of 610°F to 2100°F+ (321°C to 1149°C+). G-LOC™ does NOT recommend R18 for daily use on the street due to elevated levels of dust and noise and the amount of heat needed to work properly.
Now to Balance out the brake Bias, I use G-loc R10 Compound for the rear. It's a bit less aggressive but I absolutely love this combo the initial bite is amazing and they can take a fully 20Min session of full abuse at Laguna Seca and that's saying something as Laguna Seca is an extremely demanding track as far as brakes go.
The R10 has a much stronger initial bite and higher coefficient of friction than the R8. The R10 compound still maintains our smooth release, excellent modulation, and rotor friendliness that have been engineered into all previous G-LOC™ compounds. The R10 compound leads the industry in disc/rotor friendliness. The R10™ has a broad temperature range that begins at 118°F and a fade resistance is in excess of 1475°F (47°C – 801°C). G-LOC™ does NOT recommend R10 for daily use on the street due to elevated levels of dust and noise.
To finish out the braking system you need some of the best braking fluid out there and that's where I recommend Castrol React SRF this stuff is the absolute best never had an issue with as much heat as I can throw at it. Yes, it is expensive at around $90 a Liter but who cares when it keeps you safe and you know you have the best. Now if you buy it from FCP Euro and use their warranty program you can actually send back the fluid after you buy another bottle with their amazing return program so why not buy some here- SRF Race Brake Fluid Dry: 310°C (590°F)
Wet: 270°C (518°F)